Vintage Vixen

by Rosanna Carlucci
The station is crowded. The smell of cheap cologne and cigarettes fills every corner and hallway, making it impossible to breathe. He leans casually against the wall, like a man just minding his business, waiting.

And then like a bolt of lighting, he sees her. She makes her way through the crowd, their eyes meet and they both nod to acknowledge each other. As she gets closer the air slowly fills with the scent of lilac and roses. The setting sun filters through the station windows and seems to cast a warm glow across her face.

They finally meet and embrace. As they linger in each other’s arms, the exchange is made. Two briefcases set on the floor, one meant for the other. It is understood that it is just business, but he cannot help but hold on a little longer. As she pulls away, she can feel his disappointment. She slowly turns to walk away; her mission is complete. But before she can take her first step, she unties the scarf around her neck and gently places it in his hand. “A souvenir”, she says, and quickly disappears into the crowd…

Whether tied around the neck, head or handbag, the scarf is making an appearance. Quickly becoming the perfect accessory for day or night, the mass appeal of the scarf seems to lie in its versatility.

Back in the fifties, the scarf served many purposes, as both fashion accessory and protector. Many women would tie a scarf around their heads to protect their hair from getting messy during a windy car ride. In addition many celebrities would use the scarf to cover up a bad hair day or go incognito.

Today, the scarf has regained that popularity and continues to be a classic staple in any woman’s wardrobe. From fabulous Queen Street vintage shops to retailers such as Zara, the scarf is available in a variety of fabrics, prints, and sizes and can be tied in many different ways.

Proving that the scarf is the accessory for Fall, designers Dolce and Gabbana had virtually every model wearing a scarf around their neck or head for their Fall ’08 runway shows.

by Rosanna Carlucci
There is a lowly hum. She sits, uncomfortably, in a crowded, gray office and stares longingly at the man before her. He is reading over her memo, checking for grammar and spelling. She assures him that after four years of writing memos she is more than capable; he laughs. He stares straight into her eyes and assures her that after four years of proof reading her memos there is always room for improvement. She laughs and shifts nervously back and forth, breaking the stare. She always breaks the stare.

She loves everything about him, his gray eyes and his dark hair, the way he plays with the tip of his tie, fluttering back and forth through his fingers like a butterfly trying to escape his grip. If only she could escape his grip.

She rises from her chair and reaches for the file he is waiting for her to take, their fingers touch and she can feel her legs begin to tremble and her heart stop. He reaches for the tie of her blouse and begins to pull, she knows she should stop him but his lips convince her otherwise…

Less is more, especially at work. No other piece of clothing seems to embody this statement more than the tie front blouse, commonly known as the “secretary” blouse. Usually detailed with ruffles or lace down the front, it has come to represent a restrained and subtle sexuality, popular in the fifties and the sixties.

Fresh off the runways for Fall 2008, designers such as DKNY and Nanette Lepore have taken inspiration from this iconic workplace fantasy. Available in demure silks, rich jewel tones and soft neutrals, the secretary blouse is perfect atop a fitted pencil skirt or a great pair of jeans.

by Rosanna Carlucci
The clock on the wall strikes ten. It’s show time. She adjusts her costume one last time and scurries for the stage. Poured into a creation of feathers and crystals she still manages to shine in the darkness, waiting for her cue. Her hair is set and her lips are painted with her signature red. Her heart vibrates in her chest with excitement and anxiety, like a million drums beating at the same time. She waits.

The curtain finally pulls back and the music starts. The audience gasps in awe at the beauty before them. She glistens in the spotlight and seems to float from side to side with the grace and form of a seasoned ballerina. One glove at a time she teases and she taunts, revealing everything and nothing at the same time. With every knowing smile and suggestive glare she draws the boys in and then throws them back out. It isn’t too long before all that remains is the jewellery adorning her neck and arms, and the smile on her face. The sparkling necklace and diamond cuffs seem dull in comparison to the glow of her pale skin…

Burlesque by definition is “theatrical entertainment of a broadly humorous often earthy character consisting of short turns, comic skits, and sometimes striptease acts.” More specifically in the forties and the fifties the striptease aspect of burlesque gained great popularity and its ladies or “Queens of Burlesque” would entertain and delight audiences with their saucy acts and elaborate costumes.

Today thanks to performers like Dita Von Teese the glamour and seduction of burlesque has regained great popularity, influencing everything from art to fashion.

For her fall Ready-to-Wear collection, designer Vera Wang has teamed up with jewellery designer Philip Crangi to create the most beautiful and glamorous necklaces and cuffs for Wang’s jewellery collection. The pieces seem to be greatly inspired by the vintage costumes and jewellery worn by burlesque showgirls, covered with oversized crystals and row upon row of rhinestones.

Not for the faint of heart, the jewellery is not only large in size but also big on glamour, the perfect accessory for Toronto’s first Burlesque Festival!

Vera Wang jewellery available at Vera Wang boutiques.

www.torontoburlesquefestival.com

by Rosanna Carlucci
Everyone who is “anyone” is there, from the highbrow suits and their cookie cutter wives to their secretary lovers who pretend to be “just friends”. Each of them push into some stiff upper class joint like a bunch of white-collar rats in suits and dresses. The fear and loneliness hide behind each fake laugh and smile. Every glass of champagne seems to make the time pass and the hypocrisy less visible.

And then, from a sea of smoke, a dark haired temptress slithers in through the back door. Her green eyes like two emeralds reflect the jealous glares and wanting stares. Her red lips like two pillows part to reveal a coy grin. She can feel the want and the desire that flows through the room like a current. She knows that every man wants her and every woman wants to be her. Her black dress clings to her curves and pushes all the limits. Around her neck, a glistening gold snake seems to watch guard over his mistress. She slowly makes her way through the crowd, to the sound of sharp whispers and awkward silences…

It seems like the snake has slithered its way back into fashion. For decades the slippery dirt dwellers have adorned the arms and necks of queens, gypsies, hippies and aristocrats. More famously, the Egyptian goddess Cleopatra is often depicted with some kind of snake adornment. Overtime the snake has come to represent all that is powerful, tempting and forbidden.

The metal mesh company, Whiting and Davis, known for their metal mesh handbags and costume jewellery, truly captured the beauty and seduction of the snake in their 1963 “The Jewels of Cleopatra” collection. The timeless and highly collectable pieces are as popular today as they were back then.

More recently, designer Betsey Johnson has recreated this classic in her costume jewellery collection. The white and turquoise snake is the perfect accessory for summer’s little white dress and can be worn both as a belt or a necklace.

*Trivia: Cleopatra was reportedly killed by a poisonous snakebite from a snake that was hidden in a basket of figs.

by Rosanna Carlucci

The night air was thick and heavy; she found it hard to breathe. The ground beneath her was wet with rain and tears, but she didn’t care, she had had enough. Each alley way and nightclub knew her name; she was the lady who sang the blues, the lady with the ruby red shoes.

Everyone had thought she was a fool, leaving it all behind for a sweet talking saxophone player she hardly knew. The beat of her quickened pace against the pavement reminded her of the night they found each other, both running from the rain in a crowded bus shelter. The same night she sold her soul for a broken microphone and a drunken crowd in some club across town, just to be with him.

And now night after night the heartache would spill from her mouth and consume every beating heart in the room. She would gaze into the audience hoping he was there, despite everything, she looked. She cursed the day he took the smile from her face, the beat from her heart, and the light from her soul. He left with no warning and no reason, just an empty glass of gin and a hollow heart.

She clung to the memories of Friday night movies and Saturday morning bookshops. The swarm of butterflies that once inhabited her stomach had flown away and all she had now was her song and those shoes. They would make things right, they would take her home…

Every woman needs a pair of red shoes.  From the moment Dorothy clicked her heels three times and said those five magic words, red shoes have come to represent a combination of innocent seduction and an escape from reality; something intriguingly different.  Since their debut in the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz, the “ruby red slipper” has become an icon. For Dorothy, her ruby red slippers became a form of escape, her ticket back home.

Today red shoes continue to captivate and lure the unexpected. Many designers such as Christian Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik and Ferragamo have reinvented this classic. More recently, designer Miuccia Prada has designed the most perfect pair of modern day ruby red slippers for her Miu Miu label. The gorgeous, mouth-watering heels are exclusive to Miu Miu boutiques and are perfect for playing dress up or making a statement.

*Trivia: In 1953 shoe designer Salvatore Ferragamo designed a ruby red stiletto for Marilyn Monroe to be worn in the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. The shoes sold at Christies auction for approx. $40,000 in 1999.

by Rosanna Carlucci

She pushed him away with all the strength she had left. An afternoon of tousled sheets and champagne kisses left her listless and defeated. She couldn’t do it anymore. He fell to his knees; he was begging this time. She knew it had to end, it wasn’t right. He clung to her thighs like a prisoner begging for redemption, praying that she would change her mind. She just stood there, her red luggage clutched firmly in her hand. The image reminded him of that day at the train station where he missed his train but gained a lover.

During the weeks that followed they discovered each other like two travelers in a foreign land. In public, they played their parts on a stage they both resented. At night, in secret corners and backseat hotels they seemed to dissolve into one another and forget. But tonight was different. He knew she had to go; her heavy-handed old man would be waiting for her when she got home. He didn’t deserve her. He could only hope that one day that train would bring her back to him and they could finish what they started…

As the temperature rises and the days become longer many of us will embark on a voyage, or vacation rather. Be it a tropical destination or a local adventure there is something seductive about travel. Back in the forties and the fifties, many women would dress up for the train, plane or automobile in their Sunday best, and their luggage was no exception. Beautifully rounded carry-ons and sharp vanity cases in a variety of colours would be a staple in any ladies luggage set.

Today, ladylike designer Lulu Guinness has created the most perfect set of vintage inspired luggage. The rounded carry-on is available in three sizes and comes in the most beautiful shade of red. Perfect for holding all of a lady’s essentials for fun in the sun or play in the shade.

*Trivia: In the fifth season of Sex and the City, Carrie is seen carrying a round vanity case with her on a train ride with Samantha for her book tour. Very Some like it Hot!

Lulu Guinness luggage available at www.luluguinness.com

by Rosanna Carlucci

Bright lights, big noise. The curtain pulls back to reveal a bevy of showgirls. They seem to pulsate with the kind of energy one would expect from a neon sign. In a womb of dim red lighting, feather boas, and broken hearts, they sashay from one mirror to the next. Like painters and sculptors, they apply and reapply their lotions, powders, lashes and rouge. Covered in sequins and pearls, each girl flounces about in her costume like a bird whose wings have been clipped. The glamour is overwhelming, hitting anyone who walks in like a wave of diamonds.

There is the brunette from Missouri, apologetic and warm. Her diamond eyes fixed upon the photo of her Jack before each show. Then there is the redhead from Chicago, jealous of her own shadow. She sits alone; her reflection seems her only friend. And then there is the blonde from Nevada, living the rhinestone dream. Both her mother and grandmother were showgirls. Her business is show business and the pressure of living a legacy of late nights and broken promises seems to fade when she hits the stage…

For showgirls, or the rest of us who wish we were, feathered accessories provide that instant touch of vintage showgirl glamour for day or night.  For decades, feathers have adorned the costumes and headdresses of countless showgirls and burlesque performers. The beautifully coloured feathers of birds such as peacocks or pheasants arranged on a hat, headpiece or bodice seem to conjure feelings of frailty and seduction.  Much like the birds whose feathers they adorn, there is an exotic frailty associated with the showgirl mystique. 

Today, feathers seem to have worked their way into mainstream fashion. More specifically, hats, headbands, and feather headpieces are now available from retailers such as Urban Outfitters or Holt Renfrew.  In addition, Canadian designer Karyn Gringras, the creative force behind vintage inspired millinery Lilliput hats, has been creating her vintage inspired headpieces for over seventeen years. Many of Karyn’s creations include beautiful and exotic feathers that are perfect for any occasion and can be specially ordered or customized.  

*Trivia: In 1933, burlesque showgirl Sally Rand revealed her now infamous “Fan Dance” at the Chicago World Fair. During her act, she used two seven-foot long pink ostrich feathers to suggestively cover her semi nude body while she danced.

Lilliput hats available at www.lilliputhats.com

by Rosanna Carlucci

She knows what day it is. Like a splinter she cant quite get rid of, the pain lingers. She wonders where it all went wrong. Her mind takes her back to the coatroom at the Beaumont where they first kissed. In a bed of mink and cashmere she knew he was the one.

She could still feel his hands, his arms, and his eyes. She loved the way he smelled, like soap and wood. She would never feel him again, his weight, his sweat. The way he made her feel like she could jump from the tallest building and he would be there to catch her. The gold locket around her neck, once a token of his love and devotion was now a heavy reminder of her own empty heart.

And then he was gone, his love was not for her anymore, it was for someone else. Some blonde he met while waiting for a cab in the rain one night after work. He insisted she take the cab and she insisted that he take her heart. And today they were getting married at St. Helen’s and there was nothing she could do…

There is no other piece of jewellery quite like the locket that embodies so much emotion. Love, sadness, joy, pride, and regret all seem to share a space within those tiny windows. The locket itself dates back as early as the 1600’s and continues to remain a token of affection between loved ones. During the Second World War the locket served as a means through which many women would keep photos of their husbands or boyfriends close to their hearts during their absence.

Today, the locket also commemorates special occasions and moments such as the birth of a child or the loss of a loved one. Recreated and redesigned by many, the locket ‘s appeal seems to stem from its ability to discreetly carry one’s innermost secrets.

The company Charmco has beautifully recreated the vintage appeal of the locket in many shapes and sizes. Their website carries many recreations of not only lockets but also many vintage inspired charms and pendants. In addition, they also offer actual vintage lockets and charms for all of life’s occasions.

*Trivia: Some lockets consisted of a small piece of velvet that was dabbed with perfume and framed with a filigree border. These lockets were popular during times when good hygiene was not a possibility for most. The perfumed velvet was supposed to mask body odor.

Vintage inspired lockets available at www.charmco.com

by Rosanna Carlucci

So in walks this blonde, all shape and no time. She sashays passed the coat check; her fitted black trench loves her in all the right places. She makes her way to the bar and orders a glass of champagne. She sits and waits. She's not from around here. The man seated at the other end of the bar attempts to break his stare but his eyes won't listen. She reminds him of Rose, the blonde hair, the ruby red lips, and the uneasiness. She was the kind of woman that made him feel like everything was going to be ok. He finally looks away and the sight of his reflection in his glass makes him ill. He knows that he cannot let her get away.

   He rises from his chair and begins to walk; he is drawn to her like a moth to a flame.  As he approaches, he notices that she appears to adjust the diamond bracelet on her wrist. Yet as he draws closer he can see that her bracelet is in actuality a watch, and his temptress is checking the time with great haste. She meets his longing gaze and with the grace of a hummingbird she pays for her nectar and disappears. No bar, no man, no cage can hold her...

When the ritual of seduction is in practice, time seems to have no say.  When fashion and time meet, designers Badgley Mischka definitely have a say. The classically elegant design duo known for their breathless bridal gowns and red carpet stunners have decided to expand their empire with a line of watches.

  Each watch is beautifully designed like a piece of jewellery that can be worn both day and night. From an elegant bejeweled cuff to a beautiful crystal bow that secretly holds the time, each watch seems to be inspired by the delicate vintage timepieces of decades past. 

  As early as the 1920’s a ladies watch would range from a simple yet classical design to a more ornate “evening watch” which would resemble a piece of jewellery, such as a bracelet. The time for a new watch is now.

*Trivia: The Swiss watch company Vacheron Constantin has the record for the world’s most expensive wristwatch. The watch was created in 1979 has 118 emerald-cut diamonds and it’s estimated worth is 11 million dollars.

Badgely Mischka watches are available at www.nordstrom.com

by Rosanna Carlucci
In a thicket of tulle and lace, he finds her. He fumbles for her hand and then gently pulls her to the dance floor.  The pale moon blankets the gymnasium in a veil of teenage lust and curiosity. Together they sway side to side, holding each other with a mutual restraint that masks the desire that implodes within.

Her dress, a confection of fuchsia tulle and chiffon envelops her porcelain frame like a glove. The curl of her raven hair and the red velvet on her lips cause his heart to skip a beat and miss his step. The corsage around her wrist, slowly dying, fills the air around them with its last breaths of spring gardenia. Fearful to meet her gentle gaze, he takes her in as much as she will allow, grateful for every moment she isn’t looking…

There is something iconic about the prom, more specifically the prom dress. The frantic search for that elusive dress that will cause the boys to melt and the girls to covet. In the fifties the silhouettes accentuated a girls waist and decollate, usually filling out at the bottom with a crinoline. The delicious fabrics varied from delicate chiffon to a stiff taffeta or satin.

Today, Canadian designer Pam Chorley’s fabulous dress haven, Fashion Crimes, is the perfect place to pick up your vintage inspired prom dress. Walking into her shop is like stepping into a giant closet filled to the brim with vintage recreations and accessories. Her beautiful and exquisitely detailed dresses can be custom made or purchased off the rack. Either way, you are certain to be wearing a dress that will be as iconic as the prom itself.

Fashion Crimes 322 ½  Queen Street West

Trivia: The earliest prom dates back to the 1900’s when it consisted of a high tea where young adolescents wore their Sunday best.