Discerning Taste

by Julie Reitsma
Umbria, a spiffy region of Italy that borders Tuscany, is known for a simple, tasty cuisine that is chockfull of fresh ingredients. In Toronto, you can indulge in these fantastic flavours at La Bruschetta, the famed, yet unassuming, boîte in Corso Italia. Whether you’re visiting for a taste of their spanking new Umbrian menu or one of their just-introduced cooking classes, your experience at La Bruschetta will begin with plates. Covering the entrance, and signed by a hodgepodge of celebrity-dom—we can’t be the only one who squealed with nostalgia at spotting Luba’s—the dishware acts as a message to any new customer, to soothe any doubts running through their pretty little minds: the fêted La Bruschetta, loved by the likes of Ryan Gosling and Benicio Del Toro, is maybe not what you expected; this is no nouvelle cuisine (they’ve been around for 29 years, after-all), the décor is decidedly not designer, but the Piantoni family know the best in home cooked Italian, and with fans as yummy as these, it would stand to reason—surely your dinner will be as well.

We were summoned to St. Clair West, along with a bevy of lovely ladies, for an introduction to La Bruschetta’s Umbrian additions. Never have we been introduced to anything with such enthusiasm, abundance, and, later on, so much cursing about high-waisted skinny jeans. Once we started, with bread and painfully addictive peppers in oil, we barely got a breath in, except for the obligatory sips of wine and smatterings of conversation (“is Justin Bobby to blame, or is it Audrina’s eyeliner?”). Creamy, meaty, Wild Liver Paté was next up, served on a delightfully crunchy Rosemary Crostini, which only lost points on a too liberal drizzling of oil. The Insalata Umbra played on a contrasting combination of flavours—sweet figs, bitey gorgonzola, and smooth king oyster mushrooms—that were fresh, and with just a dash of dressing, likely the lightest thing we ate. Gamberoni Alla Sambuca, worthy of a place on the podium, quickly followed. The shrimp, so huge we’re having a hard time resisting the puns, were bathed in a ridiculously creamy tomato sauce, spiked with Sambucan aniseedy sweetness. Artichokes stuffed with a golden brown fritter-like concoction of bread crumbs, parmesan and mint had a nice, warm texture.

After a short pause, the second onslaught hit our table. Perfectly pillow-like Gnocchi Gratinati, in a creamy cheese sauce, was second serving worthy, and the Filetto di Todi, tender veal wrapped with prosciutto, asparagus and smoked cheese, had many of our dinner companions swooning. For us, the gold medal has to go to the Ravioli di Castagne, one of two raviolis served up. Though we initially thought we’d favour the Wild Boar variety, we were completely enchanted with these chestnut filled delights, served in the lightest of buttery sauces, accented by sage, the ingredients were simple, and the flavours were as close to perfection as we’ve encountered in pocket pasta. We could have easily forgone the rest of the meal and settled down with this for the night, but it was not to be. Instead, we finished our epicurean travels with an Americano, a martini glass filled with tartufo soaking in hazelnut liqueur, and, lastly, a wee slice of the traditional Umbrian Christmas dessert—a chocolate and nut slice that was fruit cake dense, with almost floral undertones, and the unexpected punch of black pepper.

As we rolled ourselves out of La Bruschetta that night, we already knew we’d be back soon. Not only is the atmosphere warm and homey, the food to-die-for deliziosa, and the prices right (all items range from $9 to $27), but with their cooking classes starting up (from $75), we’re tempted to learn how to be mistresses of Umbrian cuisine in our own right. Then again, if we don’t go back for the eating, we’ll never get the off-chance experience of stuffing ourselves with pasta while gazing at Sofia Loren, Mary-Kate Olson (seriously), or whatever other fabulous celeb has decided to add another plate to the wall.

Sixteen chefs from across the country culminated in the Niagara wine region to relentlessly cook meal after meal in a fierce competition on new reality series; The Pressure Cooker. In short time periods teams are handed unforeseen ingredients, and have to do their best to impress as chefs independently compete for the coveted title of number one.

A panel of judges scrutinizes each dish in areas of presentation, menu design, wine pairing and taste. The result is a clash of strong personalities, hot tempered cooks, and zero tolerant judging akin to Hell's Kitchen (minus the F-word). Shot in HD format it is a gripping fly-on-the-wall revelation of the egoistic madness that saturates every great Chef?s kitchen.

If you are a foodie who enjoys watching delicious meals swing into action or simply love a fiery drama - then check out the first season of Pressure Cooker on Sunday nights. The series, now half way through has reached boiling point, and judges aren't afraid to single out dead weight. Did we mention that the competing Chefs are equipped with wireless heart monitors that provide real time readings? The oven mitts are off! Watch as their blood heats up.

Backed by Food Ontario, and local wineries - this is also the perfect pairing of locally grown foods with familiar LCBO wines. Viewers can learn a lot about the intricacies that happen behind the kitchen while also getting terrific insight on whether an earthy merlot, fruity rose or dry white will make or break a dish.

Last week, the French Canadian got booted for being a poor head chef, taking too much time to figure out how to cook the meat. Other teams lost points for weirdo presentation, menu transparency issues and deeming a dish cassoulet when it was clearly not!

Of course, we are cheering on Chef Therese De Grace, our resident Bitchen Kitchen writer - who admitted to playing dumb at times in an attempt to fool sexist male chefs, who are well known for stereotyping female culinary talent as sub par. De Grace described the entire experience of being locked at local Niagara cooking school for days on end, as exhausting, challenging and full of conflicting personalities.

A sumptuous delight to watch, with just the right spice for intense post dinner entertainment. We weren't sure how to handle Sunday nights, now that Mad Men is gone, but we've fallen in love with The Pressure Cooker and are hungry for more!

SUNDAY, 10PM -11PM, SUN TV
TUESDAY, 7-8PM, MEN TV

MALABARI FOOD FESTIVAL THIS WEEKEND

by Keri O’Meara
I ate goat’s balls and they were delicious. They were pepper- fried sitting in a rich paste of tomato, onion, peppers and a medley of spices. You too can enjoy pepper- fried goats testicles at the upcoming Malabari food festival held at Maroli restaurant on Bloor St. West.
If you are less adventurous there will be plenty of other traditional Malabari dishes to please your palate and fill your belly to its ultimate capacity.

There is a poster on the wall at the modest Maroli restaurant that has a picture of its signature dish, Malabari chicken, and reads BLAND IS BAD. This was evidenced in the food served up at a preview for the festival.

A coastal region in the southern Indian province of Kerala, Malabari cuisine is unique in its vast range of flavours and ingredients. What you don’t find at a lot of Indian restaurants is seafood. Not the case at Maroli. Muscles stuffed with rice flour and rolled in cardamom and turmeric, oyster stew, chili powdered and pan fried sardines, Moilee fish curry and tuna Porotta were among the plethora of food on my plate.

But the choices do not end there. The festival will also showcase vegetarian options, briyani’s, beef stews, chicken curries, mutton curries and traditional Malabarian deserts.

Each of the samples I tried was like a hot international party in my mouth containing about 16 different spices with Portuguese, French, Dutch, Arab and Indian influences.

Much of what I tasted contained a lovely and subtle Mediterranean flavour. Some of the dishes were nose running spicy, some sweet with coconut milk some water chugging salty.

To mop up the juices left on my other wise ravaged plate I was given Pathiri, a naan like roti made with rice flour and not too heavy too finish off a very large meal.

The festival runs on November 29th and 30th from 12pm-10pm. Admission is 20 dollars and will allow you to eat vast amounts of food, have a beer or glass of wine and watch the traditional food being prepared. Maroli’s owner, Naveen Polapady, and his wife Shigdha will show you warm southern Indian hospitality and answer any questions you may have about Malabar and its fine fare.

If you cant make the festival try the restaurant for a quiet, cheap and mouth wateringly spicy meal to keep you warm during the months ahead.

by Denise Dias
The economy is floundering, Christmas is just around the corner and your boss is sure to be a scrooge with your holiday bonus...but hey, a girl’s still gotta eat!  

When the thought of another budget-friendly brown bagged lunch makes you want to hurl yesterday’s peanut butter sandwich, head on over to the InterContinental Yorkville for a luxurious lunch that will please both your wallet and your tummy.

The new Crunch Lunch menu is available during the week for only $20 per person. No time for a leisurely lunch during the workday? No problem. Guests can dine and dash in 60 minutes or less, guaranteed! And with a variety of scrumptious selections including Seafood Cobb Salad, Shitake Mushroom Quiche, and Mushroom & Asparagus Crepe, it will likely take more time to make a selection than to eat your beautiful lunch. 

Finally, a fabulous way to tighten your belt on a full stomach and one more reason to take a longer lunch break this week. Bon appétit!

220 Bloor St. West
http://toronto.intercontinental.com/

Do you squirm with jealousy at the sniffing, swirling, swishing and sipping of wine connoisseurs? Do you dream of amazing your friends with delicious bottles of wine tailored perfectly to meal and occasion? Until now, did you, like me, pick bottles of wine based on three expert categories: Funny Name, Pretty Label, Cheap Price? If so, the least likely of heroes is here to bring out your inner sommelier: Meet Francois, the Talking Mime.

At www.francoisthetalkingmime.com, the LCBO splits some delicious wines into three categories: Soft & Subtle, Medium & Balanced, and Big & Bold. For each wine, they present a recipe (printable) to pair it with, the price, and all those hints, aromas, bodies and other stuff that make you sound like you know what you're talking about, wine-wise. Pick up a bottle and go from there: you can plan an entire event based on their recommendations. Hostess with the Mostess has never been and easier title to achieve.

FRANCOIS SAYS: Pair some holiday turkey (or turn a turkey-sandwich-leftover-lunch into a classy indoor picnic) with medium-bodied wine La Vielle Ferme Cotes du Ventoux. Also good with cheese or grilled chicken. It's "a dry wine perfumed with raspberry and a hint of spice." Sound sommelier-y, don't I?

For a peek into the life of a non-video-generated sommelier, check out She Does The City's interview with Patricia Croisetiere, Sommelier for The Drake Hotel

by Keri O'Meara
This year’s Fashion Cares promises to up the glamour and glitz quota. Taking place the day after Halloween the event is based around the theme “Hitchcock meets Haute Couture.” To contribute to the extravagance, Fashion Cares will be a gala dinner. Picture tastefully over the top dinner the-ahhh-ter: tables with centre pieces that would make Tippi Hedrin Scream.

The Chair of Fashion Cares, Michael King, wanted to make sure the dinner menu was just as fabulous as the rest of the evening. “People have paid a lot of money for these tickets and it would be disrespectful to serve them something less than special… The food is part of the whole experience.”

Fashion Cares is being held at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre where executive Chef Angelo Fernandez and his staff will have to prepare a three course meal for twelve hundred and fifty of Toronto’s most fantastic, fabulous and finicky people.

King is not worried not worried about how Canada’s elite will respond to Chef Angelo’s menu. “The fashion crowd are hard critics….But I think people will be blown away,” he says.

Last week I got to sit down with the shy Chef and the dashing Fashion Cares Chair for a taste of what Toronto’s fashionista’s will be dining on at the event. While I am no fashion elite (YET) and certainly cannot afford a 10,000 dollar dinner I do have discerning culinary tastes.

We started with a wonton wrapped seaweed cigar packed full with perfectly sweet leeks and meaty shitake mushroom served on mixed greens with rice wine vinaigrette.

Seaweed and leeks are not quite Halloween, let alone fall, but as King explains the cigar is an ode to the heavy smoking master of suspense himself, Alfred Hitchcock.

Next, we are served sliced and roasted Striploin cooked a perfect medium rare- no steak knife required- with gratin like tower of Yukon and sweet potato’s. Bright yellow patty pans, baby carrots, and snow peas adorn the plate. How the chef and his team will cook these fall coloured vegetables with that subtle crunch on the outside, for 1250 people is a Hitchcockian suspense.

Finally two deserts are put in front of me: A chocolate dipped poached pair with delicious chestnut puree filling and, a chocolate tulip cup filled with raspberry chocolate mousse. The only think scary about these deserts is the fear that I might have to undo the top button of my jeans.

Introducing the launch of http://www.greenbeltfresh.ca

by Kimi Abdullah

Whether you’re the weekly nutritional menu planner or the queen of convenience store grocery shopping, I’m sure you can appreciate fresh fruits and vegetables. Everyone goes ape shit for sun-kissed strawberries in June and tooth-chipping crunchy apples in September.

This summer, to my delight, I stumbled upon a farmers’ market in my neighbourhood on my walk home from work. I was giddy at the sight of fresh lettuces, heirloom tomatoes, sugar baby pears and organic berries. I then went into a type excitement overload that should really only be reserved for a Williams-Sonoma clearance sale when my eye spied some artisanal cheeses, real honey, fresh eggs and homemade bread. For all my self-proclaimed so-called food expertise, I have to admit that I was, and still am, quite ignorant about the bounty Ontario has to offer. But all of that is about to be fixed.

Toronto is a part of Ontario’s Greenbelt, a protected region that is 1.8 million acres that includes the Niagara Escarpment, the Oak Ridges Moraine, Rouge Park, hundreds of rural towns and villages and some 7,000 farms. The list of what is grown in the Greenbelt is long – asparagus, apricots, cabbage, cauliflower, corn, green beans, grapes, leeks, melons, pears, kale, swiss chard, zucchini, and it goes on . . .

On October 1st, Friends of the Greenbelt Foundation launched Greenbeltfresh.ca, a website that can not only tell you what’s in season (October: apples, pears, plums = PIES!) but also provides some delicious recipes and interesting reads about the benefits of eating locally-produced food. And should your visit to the market inspire you to become a localvore, the website includes a listing of local foods restaurants – it just doesn’t list which ones deliver.

Although, some of the markets stop running during the fall, there are a few that run year round like the Dufferin Grove Organic Farmers’ Market and the St. Lawrence Farmer’s Market. To find out which market nearest you is open, you simply need to enter your postal code.

Don’t let the end of summer be the end of your kitchen inspirations. Log on and get out to your farmers’ market!

by Haley Cullingham
Oktoberfest is a 16-day celebration/excuse to wear funny hats, drink steins and steins of beer, and gourge yourself on weiner schnitzel. (Cultural note: Those who overindulge are called 'Bierliechen', German for beer corpses). Luckily, you don't have to travel to Germany or Ontario's own Little Berlin (Waterloo) to experience the fest right: Fynn's of Temple Bar is celebrating with a week-long tribute to Oktoberfest, that kicks off with a classy OktoberFEAST on October 14th.

The Food Network's Kevin Brauch, the Thirsy Traveller and a floor reporter for Iron Chef America, will host this 5-course dinner of champions. Each delicious dish will be paired with a beer to taste, and Kevin might be bringing a surprise sixth beer for the lucky (read: drunk) diners. $40 gets you into this culinary beer-tour, where great music will be played and you can over-indulge with the best of them.

Fynn's has great events going on all week, so check out http://www.fynnstemplebar.com for a complete list. For dinner reservations or questions, contact: jamieverk@fynnstemplebar.com

For a very special evening outside the big smoke, head to the Farmstart Feast at McVean Farm – Sunday October 5th

Farmstart is a collective of farmers that work off of McVean Farm. 150 years old, McVean Farm marks the beginning of Brampton, and has been around far longer than all the little boxes made of ticky tacky. In 1970, the land was taken over by the Toronto and Region Conservation group but has recently been reclaimed to use by the farming collective. The dinner on October 5th is a fundraiser for the farm – to help with irrigation, electricity and overall farm functionality. So who's doing the cooking? Toronto's top chefs. Cross Town Kitchens is an organized collective of chefs from Marben, C5, Torito, Perigee and Amuse-Bouche that raise money for a variety of food-centric charities through their cooking and build a strong food community, with Torontonians, farmers, markets and each other.

The farmers behind Farmstart are young, relatively new and have for the most part ditched their office jobs downtown to work the land with the objective to produce smaller scale organic food on local farms. Further to growing food, the not-for-profit organization offers programs for fellow farmers such as New Farmers Incubator Program and New Canadians, New Farmers – providing access to farmland, equipment and related workshops.

The cost of the feast is $75, which includes two drink tix and shuttle up to Brampton. All the veggies will come directly from the surrounding land including freshly harvested beets, beans, peas and carrots. Meat has been generously donated by Cumbrae's farm, local brewery Mill St. will provide the beer and Cave Spring, Peller Estates and Fielding Estate will do the wine. How completely amazing does this sound? I'm salivating already.

Tix can be purchased at participating Cross Town restaurants, Marben, C5, Torito, Perigee, Amuse-Bouche or at The Matchbox Garden and Seed and Co. booth at the Trinity Bellwoods Farmers Market Tuesday 3-7PM.

Take a break from the downtown hustle, enjoy a delicious meal made by some of our cities finest chefs and get to know the farmers who are making your food.

More info:

http://www.farmstart.ca/
www.matchboxgarden.ca

Billed as one of our city’s best dressed by Toronto Life, restaurateur Lesle Gibson keeps bringing new life and style to her fixed address at College and Palmerston. A few years back, Xacutti was the place to be seen whether basking in the sun on front patio for brunch or knocking back shots at 1AM. The success of Xacutti landed Bird upstairs, a smoky little nest that lured in Bono, Clive Owen and Drew Barrymore. After a two year hiatus in LA, Gibson returned to her old hood and brought us dear Grace, which has been receiving favourable reviews for its upscale farmhouse cooking since opening on May 5th. In its short time, Grace has already served Canada A-listers Don McKellar, Sandra Oh and lovey-dovey couple Rachel McAdams and Ryan Gosling. A little less of a party, and more of a calm retreat, Grace is a reflection of Gibson’s sophisticated and matured style, “I wanted the space to be soft, welcoming and cozy”. She succeeded, while still giving us a lively atmosphere that resembles a relaxed dinner party amongst good friends. The new addition, Grace Upstairs, will offer Torontonians the perfect place for an intimate private dining experience. The high ceiling, narrow room has one long table that can seat up to thirty. When not booked for the ultimate birthday or celebration, you can grace upstairs for a drink at the bar; a sexy lounge for an after work wind down or weekend catch up session amongst your group of gabby gals. It’s certainly a perfect location for celebrities wishing to remove themselves from the festival bubble and relax in a space where hounding for autographs just won’t happen.

503 College Street
www.gracerestaurant.ca