Adventures in Amsterdam

by Jacqueline Segal

Just got back from what could only easily be described as a whirlwind trip to Amsterdam.  And though it was colder than expected, with nary a tulip in bloom, my girlfriends and I had a wonderful time.  And, easily put on about 5 to 10 pounds each.  Easily.   

I’d never been to Amsterdam before, and my only culinary expectations were those of the clichéd variety.  And expected to pay half for.  (To obvious?)  Beyond chocolate and cheese, we had no idea what to expect, and, frankly, wouldn’t have been too upset if those were our only options.  We ended up being pleasantly surprised though, once we ventured beyond the tourist traps to the more livable neighborhoods in the city. 

Amsterdam was strikingly smaller than expected, not that much larger than Ottawa, and very compact, making it very walk-able.   

Some things we discovered on our adventures:

• Coffee there was wonderful, as the watery-brewed drippy stuff was nowhere to be found. 
• Fresh baked goods were plentiful, mostly of the sticky-sweet pastries variety.
• Beer was cheaper than water.  Cheaper than most things, really.
• There seem to be no fire codes for crowd control in bars and clubs.  Bars were shockingly packed.  Even locals kept their eyes on the fire escapes. 
• Frites were EVERYWHERE, in every size, with all kinds of toppings.  You could tell the tourists by what their sauce choices were.  Ketchup? American.  Sweet chili sauce?  Aussies and Kiwis.  Mayonnaise and peanut sauce, together?  Dutch locals.  Even post-club, I couldn’t stomach that one.   
• Make sure to take some time to enjoy the plentiful Indonesian cuisine, and specifically, a Rijsttafel, a dining experience unique to the Dutch.  Dating back to colonial times, the Rijsttafel (or rice table) consists of rice accompanied by a number of smaller side dishes (anywhere from 6 to 60) that range from mild to spicy. 
• A night out can turn pretty expensive if you don’t watch what you’re drinking.  The drinks are poured strong, but the mix comes at a high price.  If you’re trying to make a dollar stretch, stick to beer, or order your drinks straight up on ice, and split the mix with a friend. 
• The red-light district may be lit in red, but is hardly the eyebrow-raiser it’s made out to be.   A Pride parade in Toronto makes Amsterdam’s district seem tame.  Frankly, a night out on at Circa could easily trump it. 
• It was surprising how low-key the cannabis culture was.  Not in the hidden sense, but in the “who really cares?” type of mindframe.  “Coffeeshops” ranged from dingy to trendy, and could be helpful and tourist friendly or snooty and offended you didn’t know your organic Thai from your hydoponic Jamaican varieties.  They did, however, take ID-ing seriously, more so than any bars we visited.  In some cases, we got the impression they served almost the same purpose as our LCBOs.  Young couples, stopping on their way home from work, picking up something that would complement their dinner party nicely. Made us wonder what all the fuss was back at home. 
• The entire trip was like a giant game of Frogger, dodging between the bikes and trams that seemed to make no concessions for pedestrians.  This proved dangerous as we would criss-cross the streets, filling our knapsacks with charcuterie treats for picnicking around the city.  
• The best meals were found off the beaten track, beyond the fluorescence of the touristy centre, towards neighborhoods like the Jordaan and along streets such as the Utrechtsestraat.  They were better value, better tasting, and catered to the inner foodie in each of us.  If you visit, be sure to check market times, as the mid-week organic market is considered to be one of the best. 
• And lastly, in the vein of being as responsible as my mother wishes I were, be sure, if you visit, to make use of the bathrooms available to you.  Otherwise, you’re sure to be charged anywhere from 1 to 3 Euro just to visit a restaurant’s, church’s or even public garden’s facilities.   My friends do tell me that the stalls found at the Museumplein are futuristic and stylish, if you’re in to that kind of thing. 
  

Once you get beyond the core, and you’ll know what I mean when you’re there, you’ll find an unexpectedly beautiful city in Amsterdam.   Good luck, and good eating!