During my senior year of high school, a group of friends eschewed spring break in Cancun for the closer, albeit colder, Quebec City. We saw a lot of the inside of our nondescript hotel room and the city’s debaucherous nightclubs. We also saw a few things we didn’t expect: Hair extensions soaring overhead, a vicious catfight, a stripper groping my unsuspecting girlfriend and a baseball-bat-wielding bouncer attacking an underage patron.

I knew Quebec City had far more to offer. But I hadn’t seen it.

For my boyfriend’s 30th birthday, I decided to revisit the city and tease out its more refined charms. All I had to do was open my eyes. An enormous leap from the spring break experience, I’ll forever remember Quebec City for its winding cobblestoned streets steeped in history and dripping with romance.

Taking VIA Rail along the St. Lawrence River

The train trip from Montreal brings you through picturesque towns along the Saint Lawrence River. If you opt for business class, the two-and-a-half hour journey seems to leave you with just enough time to read a few pages of a complementary newspaper, drink a cocktail or two and enjoy the three-course meal provided. The trip leaves you at the designated Heritage Railway Station Gare du Palais. To save several hundreds of dollars: Book in advance and opt for coach. Lately Via Rail has offered online only “Escape” fares to Quebec City for as little at $29 each way from Montreal, $99 from Toronto.

Sipping Martinis at Chateau Frontenac

Built in 1893, the Ch teau Frontenac is perched atop the city, overlooking the Saint Lawrence River. The hotel has housed the governor general, the premier and two war conferences. Get a taste of the heritage in the hotel’s turret style St-Laurent Bar and Lounge with their historically themed Martinis, named after three of the hotels most illustrious guests, the Winston Churchill, the F.D. Roosevelt, and the Maurice Duplessis.

Sitting on one of the bar’s lushly upholstered chairs, warming my feet in front of a fireplace, I opted for a latte instead. Looking out at a sweeping view of the Saint Lawrence River as I sipped, I imagined British ships sailing under the cover of nightfall back in 1759 to surprise French forces from the rear entrance of the fortified city, setting the scene for the Battle of the Plains of Abraham.

Walking back in time to the 1700s

Set at the foot of the cliff below Chateau Frontenac, the Rue du Petit Champlain is one of the oldest commercial district in North America. As I walked past windows of handmade moccasins, I imagined what the street must have looked like in the early 1700s when First Nation hunters and trappers traded pelts of beaver and other furs for tools, pots and liquor from European colonists.

Today, the artisans and merchants collectively own the buildings along the street. They sell jewelry, clothing, food and decorative arts.

Wander into Les Trois Corbeau and let co-owners Christyna Mayer and Jeff Ferrier hypnotize you as they blow, heat and meld glass into delicate masterpieces with methodical precision.

Artisan delights at La Clocher Penche

Venture out of the fortified walls of Old Quebec City into the recently revitalized Saint-Roch neighbourhood. After a significant urban planning failure in the 70s in which the city built a roof over a strip of stores which eroded the quality of the area, the city decided to injected $380 million to renovate and rebuild old factories, plants and buildings. The downtown neighborhood is now bustling with IT workers, merchants, students, residents, artists, and artisans. French bistro La Clocher Pench fits in perfectly to the trendy reincarnation of Saint-Roch. The restaurant is defined by a tireless commitment to artisan, fresh and sustainable produce. Co-owners Steve McCandless, Mathieu Brisson and Thomas Pelissier features profiles of their suppliers on their website. Their award wining goat cheese supplier ric Proulx is pictured with one of his goats resting comfortably on his shoulders. Don’t miss their fresh cheese curds appetizer, served with smoked duck, pear, coriander and curry oil.

For breakfast try Buffet de L’antiquaire for the BEST breakfast potatoes and cr pes I’ve ever had.

Romance at The Hotel Manoir Victoria

The Hotel Manoir Victoria, is ideally located in the heart of Old Quebec City. Here are three steps to getting the most out of your luxurious surroundings:

1. Throw a shampoo bottle into on of the hotel’s immense tubs and watch as bubbles pile up.

2. Draw the soft fabric curtains that encircle the bubble bath and submerge.

3. Get into a plush robe and warm your feet in front of the gas fireplace.

If you have a little extra time: Drop by the hotel’s Pevonia Spa for an express 20-minute facial ($45) or a full body scrub (from $65).

~ Morgan Dunlop